Oltrarno Florence: Why Visit the “Other Side” of the Arno

Get off the beaten path in Florence… without even leaving the historic center! Just walking across the River Arno brings you to one of our favorite neighborhoods… the Oltrarno Florence. The name itself actually means “beyond the Arno.”, and this is where we are going to take you for six sights you can’t miss in Florence, that all happen to be in the Oltrarno!

For this view of Florence, you have to head across the Arno River.

6 Must-see sights across the Arno in Oltrarno Florence

The Palazzo Pitti

Thought that the only two art museums you “had” to see were the Uffizi and Accademia? Think again! If you’re into art, then you can’t miss the Pitti Palace. Located just over the Ponte Vecchio from the heart of Florence, the Renaissance-era palace belonged to Luca Pitti, a Florentine banker; the Medici family bought it in 1549, and it became the ruling family’s main residence.

A lunette painted in 1599 by Giusto Utens, depicts the palazzo before its extensions, with the amphitheatre and the Boboli Gardens behind. Photo credit: Wikipedia

The palace today is home to the Palatine Gallery, with more than 500 paintings, most from the Renaissance. Many might look familiar from a past art history course or a History Channel documentary on the Renaissance; the collection includes works by Titian, Perugino, Raphael, Correggio, and Rubens.

Some of the rooms were frescoed by the famous Baroque artist Pietro da Cortona. The Palazzo Pitti also has several lesser-known collections, including museums devoted to silver, porcelain, modern art, and fashion.

Boboli Gardens

The breathtaking Boboli gardens with sculptured bushes, fountains and flowers!

Looking for a bit of green during your Florence stay? At 11 acres, the Boboli Gardens make up one of the biggest public parks in central Florence. Laid out originally in the 16th century, the Boboli Gardens, which are attached to the Palazzo Pitti, are formal gardens, with a twist.

They have outdoor sculptures including ancient Roman statues and, most famously, striking Mannerist works, including a grotto that was carved to look as if it was dripping with stalactites and houses copies of important Renaissance and Baroque works.

Melting statues in the Boboli gardens’ grotto

Florentine Artisans

Okay, maybe it doesn’t count as a “sight,” but we think it’s worth seeing when you are in Altrarno Florence! Afterall, the city is known for its artisans, but, sadly, most in the center have been pushed out by souvenir shops and touristy trattorias. (Even those that “look” artisanal often have imported goods: if there isn’t a workbench in the back of the store, always be wary!).

Head across the Arno, though, and go back to a time where chain stores weren’t the norm. The whole area around the Piazza di Santo Spirito still thrums with artisanal traditions. Some of our favorites: La Carta di Omero (bookbinding and handmade marbled paper), Filippini e Paoletti (mosaics handcrafted from Murano glass), Mara Broccardi (handmade and bespoke ladies’ shoes), and Ugo Bellini (handmade jewellery). Peek in even if you’re not planning to buy—there’s nothing like watching the Oltrarno artisans at work.

Get off the beaten path and into the quieter streets across the Arno!

Brancacci Chapel

Located in Oltrarno Florence is the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. The Brancacci Chapel provides a spectacular chance to actually chart the development of the Renaissance… with your own eyes. That’s because Masaccio, often called the father of the Renaissance, began frescoing the chapel in the 1420s at just 21 years of age. (He’d taken over from his master, Masolino, who left to paint for the king of Hungary). But Masaccio died at 27, and his frescoes were left unfinished… until the 1480s. Filippino Lippi completed the frescoes, 60 years after they’d begun.

Beautiful frescoes by Masaccio and Lippi in the Brancacci Chapel

The result? The frescoes are a great way to see how Renaissance art developed from its earliest years to the midway point. That’s not to mention that the frescoes are simply stunning: Masaccio’s Tribute Money is one of the most famous pieces of the early Renaissance, and his frescoes were so important, Michelangelo trained by copying them.

Basilica of S. Maria del Santo Spirito

This church, often simply called “Santo Spirito,” might be unassuming-looking from the outside. But it has a serious pedigree: It was designed by Brunelleschi. Yes, the guy behind the dome. Although his facade for the basilica never was completed, the interior, with its Latin cross and 40 side chapels, is fairly true to his original design.

Don’t miss the frescoes by Filippino Lippi in the transept, especially now that you’ve already seen the master’s work at the Brancacci Chapel!

Piazzale Michelangelo and the Church of San Miniato al Monte

Stretch your legs, or grab a bus, for the best view of Florence around. This is where postcard photographers get their shots. You can see it all: the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi, even the mountains in the distance.

The view from Piazzale Michelangelo overlooking the Florence skyline.

And, even if you don’t think you can take one more church, pay a visit to the Church of San Miniato al Monte. An absolute gem of a church, the basilica dates back to the 11th century and is one of the finest Romanesque churches in all of Italy. And Pinocchio’s creator is buried in the cemetery outside.

Insider tip: If you don’t want to make the 20-minute walk up to Piazzale Michelangelo and San Minato al Monte, you can take buses 12 or 13 from Ponte alle Grazie to the piazza.

Florence’s cityscape with the Arno river running through it, a city of 2 sides!

FAQs – Visiting the Oltrarno Florence

Is the Oltrarno a good place to stay in Florence?

Yes! The Oltrarno is one of Florence’s most authentic, relaxed, and creative neighborhoods. It’s quieter than the historic center yet still walkable to major sites like the Uffizi and the Duomo. Staying here gives you easy access to artisan workshops, local trattorias, riverside views, and a more “lived-in” Florentine atmosphere.

What’s the best time of day to explore the Oltrarno Florence ?

Early morning is peaceful and perfect for photos, while late afternoon into evening is ideal for cafés, aperitivo bars, and people-watching around Piazza Santo Spirito. The neighborhood becomes especially lively at night, when locals head out for food and live music.

Do I need tickets to visit places like the Pitti Palace or Brancacci Chapel?

Yes, both require tickets. The Brancacci Chapel often books out days in advance and uses timed entry slots because of its fragile frescoes. It’s best to reserve early. The Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens offer combined tickets if you want to visit both.

The breathtaking view of Florence’s terracotta rooftops and surrounding hills from the dome’s summit.

Ready to experience Florence beyond the guidebook?

Whether you’re passionate about Renaissance art, hidden Oltrarno gems, gourmet Tuscan cuisine, or breathtaking views, Walks of Italy tours in Florence are designed to help you see the city like a local, with expert guides who bring each piazza, palace, and fresco to life.

From skip-the-line access to the Uffizi to street food adventures and exclusive evening experiences, you’ll discover more than just sights, you’ll uncover stories. Your unforgettable Tuscan adventure starts with a step, take it with Walks of Italy!